What are Controllers, timers and clocks?
How does drip irrigation work?
How does a Backflow prevention device work?
Why is my system using so much water?
Why is my sprinkler system leaking when it is off?
How do I fix broken heads and coverage issues?
How do I select a Irrigation Contractor?
What are Controllers, timers and clocks?
Irrigation Controllers, Timers or Clocks. All three of these terms refer to the same piece of equipment, a device that controls the irrigation system and turns it on and off at a desireable time and operates the system for a preset period of time. The preferred term among professionals for this piece of equipment is controller.
There are two basic types of irrigation controllers, electromechanical and electronic. Both types do essentially the same thing, but each offers unique features and benefits that may be desireable depending upon the specific project.
First introduced in the 1940s and 1950s, electromechanical controllers are well-regarded as a dependable solution for irrigation systems. Driven by electric motors and gears these units offer exceptional reliability since they have very few sophisticated electronic components. Power outages have a limited effect on these controllers since the watering schedule is mechanically programmed into the unit. In other words, the controller is set by turning dials or flipping switches to select when watering will start, how long each zone will water and what days watering will occur. The watering program is not eliminated by power surges or outages, and backup batteries are unnecessary.
The down side of mechanical controllers is that they are very basic in their capabilities. Today’s landscapers and water purveyors recommend that you water grass areas on separate zones from shrubs or groundcovers because of the different water use requirements of these plants. In addition, it is frequently recommended that specific areas of your landscape be watered at different rates or frequencies due to exposure to sun, poor drainage, or soil conditions. The typical mechanical controller lacks the ability to provide independent scheduling or accomodate these complex watering requirements.
Electronic controllers, on the other hand, have the capabilities to meet the needs of today’s water conscious and sophisticated landscape designs. There is a wide selection of models with varying levels of complexity.
In recent years, irrigation equipment manufacturers have made significant improvements to make their electronic controllers simple to program while at the same time adding more features and programming flexibility. Controllers have taken on names that indicate their ease of operation, for example one manufacturer calls their unit the ESP Series, which stands for Extra Simple Programing. Another manufacturer calls their controller the SRC, for Simple and Reliable Controller.
Today’s modern controllers can water given areas of the garden with the precision required by the most water conscious designer. In addition they can be programmed to apply water in short bursts, preventing run-off in the most steeply sloped areas.
Only the imagination of the installing contractor or the end user limits the water saving capabilities of the typical electronic controller. Unfortunately, in many instances the programming capabilities are not utilized to their full potential. Often, users do not give careful consideration to the watering needs of the specific areas of their lawn or the programming changes that are necessary with the changing seasons. It is unfortunately common that many of the systems in operation today are applying water according to the original program set by the original installer, sometimes years earlier. As lawns mature and as trees grow in adjacent areas, there is a need to reprogram the controller to realize water savings, or make seasonal adjustments and apply water according to the needs of the plant material.
For more information on scheduling your irrigation system, visit the Video section.
One of the best ways to permit your controller to automatically compensate for rainfall (and thereby prevent unnecessary watering) is to install a Rain Sensor.
Special Note: Almost all electronic controllers require a 9 volt battery to retain their watering program during power outages. Consider changing that battery along with your smoke detector batteries once a year.
What are heads?
Today’s modern sprinkler systems include sprinkler heads of two types: spray heads and rotary heads. The types of heads utilized on a specific project will be determined by the dimensions of the area being covered, the water pressure available for operation, and a variety of other factors
Spray Heads
These are usually the most commonly envisioned when thinking of a sprinkler system. These heads are dispersed around the lawn and in planting beds.
Their spacing between sprinklers can vary depending upon the specific nozzle installed in the head, but they are rarely are spaced further than 15 feet apart. (see discussion of nozzles below) Spray sprinklers installed in turf areas are designed to pop-up during watering and retract to below the turf line to allow mowing and normal use of the lawn after watering.
Spray head bodies are commonly available in various sizes, the difference being the height that the spray apparatus or nozzle is lifted above the body of the head. The pop-up heights vary between manufacturers with 2", 3", 4", 6", and 12" pop up sprays being the most commonly available. The high-pop-up models including the 6 inch and 12 inch are used for flower and shrubbery bed areas where risers might be unsightly or subject to damage from passerby.
The most basic version of a spray head is a fixed (non-pop-up) head mounted on a riser. Risers are sometimes PVC, sometimes copper, with the spray nozzle on top. Risers are used to keep the nozzle above the level of the projected growth of shrubs or groundcovers to ensure even distribution of water. These fixed heads typically have nozzles that are interchangeable with the pop-up units used in lawn areas.
Rotary Heads
These sprinklers are larger devices that are used in open, un-interrupted spaces that allow water to be dispersed 25 to 30 feet or more. These heads typically pop-up during use and retract after operation for use in lawns or other areas with foot traffic. They are also available in fixed (non-pop-up) versions for use on risers in large planting areas. There are two basic types of rotary sprinklers, categorized by the mechanism that causes the sprinkler to rotate. These types are impact rotors and gear-driven rotors.
Impact rotors are the oldest type of rotary heads. Originally developed for use in watering agricultural crops in the 1930’s, impact rotors have been used since the 1940’s for turf irrigation.
The basic operation of an impact sprinkler is simple. As water leaves the sprinkler nozzle it comes in contact with a spring-loaded drive arm. This arm is shoved aside by the force of the water. The spring then returns the arm to its original position and it again comes into contact with the water and also a stop or shoulder on the sprinkler body. The impact against the shoulder causes the entire head assembly (and sprinkler stream) to rotate slightly. This constant impact and movement will cause the head to rotate a complete circle and slowly water the entire area within that circle. In addition, each time the water makes contact with the sprinkler arm, a small amount of "splash" is created that falls near the sprinkler head.
For part-circle sprinklers, an attachment is added to this assembly to reverse the rotation and cause the head to move backwards before it completes a full circle of revolution. This back and forth rotation allows the head to be used in areas like corners and along walks or streets.
Many industry representatives argue that the impact rotor provides the most uniform coverage of any sprinkler on the market, including spray sprinklers.
However, the impact sprinkler’s popularity has waned due to some significant operating drawbacks. The largest problem with impact sprinklers is their high maintenance requirement. As an impact sprinkler is activated, it rises out of its assembly to approximately 4 inches above the turf. During the time the sprinkler is in operation, this open cavity in the sprinkler case becomes an open catch all for trash, mud, clippings, insects, and all types of yard debris.
This debris is washed into the mechanism during the normal operation of the head. Periodic maintenance is required to keep sprinkler canisters clean and to keep dirt and debris from causing damage to the mechanism.
The design of an impact sprinkler also has many exposed, moving parts. The springs that control the motion of the arm and the reversing mechanism can bend, rust, fall off or get entangled with debris.
Gear-driven rotary sprinklers are used in most modern systems. With these sprinklers, water turns a small turbine (water wheel or fan) in the base of the unit which drives a series of gears that cause the head to rotate. The gear drive mechanism is sealed from dirt and debris and operates without the irritating clatter of impact sprinklers. The gear driven design has dominated rotary sprinkler sales in the irrigation industry for some time, in both residential and commercial sites.
Gear driven rotors represent the biggest improvement in irrigation technology since the invention of PVC pipe. They are easy to adjust and are factory sealed to keep contaminants out. However, as with any type of equipment, the gear driven rotor can be mis-used and mis-applied.
Although the individual gear drive rotor unit is several times more costly than a spray head, its wider spacing capabilities means fewer heads are needed to cover a given area.
Some installers will use these heads in spaces that are too small for efficient rotor operation. These installers attempt to reduce the number of heads and piping connections, thus reducing trenching and labor costs. When a rotary sprinkler is forced to cover an area too small for its intended design, the result is increased misting and inefficient coverage (See Misting below). If a rotor is adjusted to reduce its throw more than 25% of its factory specification, it is being misused.
Sprinkler Nozzles
The nozzle is the device that water passes through as it is leaving the head and is to be dispersed onto the landscape. Irrigators rely on different nozzles to vary the quantity of water dispersed during the watering cycle, as well as the distance that water is to be thrown by each head. The amount of water distributed over a given area per minute can be doubled or tripled by choosing the correct nozzle.
Spray nozzles come in varying sizes and patterns, depending upon the manufacturer. If selected and installed properly, they form a spray pattern that will provide a uniform application of water over a given area. Years of research is behind every new nozzle before it is released into the marketplace.
Rotary nozzles usually are inserted into the body of the head after it has been installed. Available nozzle sizes vary with each manufacturer. Uniform and complete coverage depends on selection of an appropriate nozzle for the area to be covered. Two different nozzles will cause the same rotary head to vary the distance of throw by 10 feet or more and increase water use by factors of two or three.
Mistingis caused by high pressure at the sprinkler nozzle that results in the breakup of the spray into a very fine atomized mist. It often appears as a fog over a system as it sprays. The presence of misting is an indication that adjustments may be necessary to increase water droplet size as the spray leaves the head. Discuss this problem with your irrigation contractor to improve the overall efficiency of a system that is experiencing spray drift or misting.
Clogged nozzles cause improper application of water and reduced efficiency by misdirecting the spray pattern. "Spitting", partial spray patterns, or a complete lack of water being discharged by a sprinkler head can be caused by debris caught inside the assembly. Removal of this debris must be done carefully since most heads are made of plastic. Digging or gouging at the orifice or opening can cause permanent damage and permanent changes to the spray pattern.
What are valves?
Zone valves are the mechanical devices that turn the water on and off to the individual sections of the system. Water meters and water service lines cannot provide enough water to water an entire yard at once, so the system is typically broken up into several individual zones or stations.
The concept of "zones" also allows the professional irrigator to group areas based on watering need. Flower beds verses grass, sunny areas verses shady areas, etc. Valves are typically installed near the area they water. Sometimes valves can be installed above the ground and grouped in a "manifold" near a faucet or water source.
There are two basic types of valves being used today. Manual valves, that require a person to turn them on and off, and automatic or electric valves, that are operated by the electric controller.
Manual valves require very little discussion. They are simple: if you know where they are and have a wrench (or valve key) to turn them on, all you need is a watchful eye and a string around your finger to remember how long they should run. Systems with manual valves are seldom installed today. Existing manual valve systems can be easily upgraded to automatic control for reduced hassle and greater efficiency by a professional contractor.
Automatic valves are a bit more involved, but you would be amazed at the simplicity of the technology that operates these devices. Most modern systems installed today rely on automatic electric valves.
Most automatic valves operate on 24-volt electricity. Wires run in the ground along with the main line pipe to the valve and are connected to the controller. When the controller sends the 24 volt current to the valve, it opens. When the current is cut the valve closes. The control wires are connected to an electric solenoid on each valve that converts the energy of the current and mechanically operates the valve.
If you cut any of the control wires in a system, you must repair them with an approved waterproof connector designed for direct burial. Wire nuts, electrical tape, or just a twist of the wires is not enough to keep water from eventually corroding the connection and interrupting the normal flow of current. Locating and repairing bad wire splices can be time consuming and costly.
If you think you have cut your control wires, call your irrigation contractorto make the necessary repairs. Broken wires or damaged wire insulation will lead to further problems down the road. Remember, direct burial connectors are the only approved repair parts.
Zone valves are generally buried in a "valve box". This is usually a 6 inch round plastic box with a green lid. Boxes can be covered with grass or mulch, but it is a good idea to have a general idea of their location in case service is needed.
How does drip irrigation work?
Drip systems utilizes emitters or an emitter type system (leaky pipe, etc.) to dispense water one drop at a time directly to the root zone of individual plantings.
Drip is the most efficient method of applying water to a specific planting bed area. That’s a bold statement, but it is true. Drip systems apply water only to the area in need of water, run off and the effects of wind are eliminated. Emitter, bubbler, trickle, micro spray, and ooze methods are all considered drip irrigation in one way or another.
A drip system can be as simple as a few emitters on a specific zone to a series of drip zones that water foundation plantings, container-grown flowers, and vegetable gardens. In all cases, drip installations require additional and more complex equipment than the typical sprinkler system, including pressure reducing equipment and filters. With a drip system, the valves and controller must be carefully selected to ensure they are compatible with the watering times and flow rates used in drip irrigation.
For some, drip irrigation works like a charm. For others, it is a curse.
The first question in determining if drip irrigation is the right solution to a particular landscape irrigation problem should be, "Can the system be monitored?". Drip irrigation is a high maintenance method of applying water. It needs to be monitored regularly. Problems with a drip system may be harder to pinpoint and more difficult to fix. The small openings in drip emitters and tubes can easily be clogged by small contaminants or lime deposits. Poor filtration and back siphoning of contaminants into the emitters can render the system ineffective in a short time. Make sure your irrigation contractor is experienced with drip installations before utilizing a drip system in your landscape.
The Rain Bird Landscape Drip Irrigation Design Manual of 1984 lists 14 Pros and Cons of drip irrigation. These considerations continue to remain true and may help you decide whether a drip system is best for your situation. Here are the highlights of their research:
ADVANTAGES OF DRIP IRRIGATION:
Low pressure requirements (leaks are less critical)DISADVANTAGES OF DRIP IRRIGATION:Energy savings (lower pumping costs with lower pressure needs)
Low flow rates (water large areas with small pipes)
Water savings (only specific areas are wetted)
Reduced or no runoff (another benefit of low application rates)
Reduced weed growth (areas between plants are not watered)
Reduced puddling (avoiding high evaporation)
Precise water control (a product of low application rate and highly accurate irrigation controllers)
Doesn’t seal the soil (slow application avoids saturation)
Low installation costs (lower than underground sprinkler systems)
Efficient fertilizing (through injection systems)
Saline water use (higher salt content can be tolerated because water isn’t sprayed on leaf surface)
Better plant growth (constant moisture available)
Less plant stress (wet/dry syndrome reduced)
High maintenance (system requires constant monitoring)Drip irrigation design seems to have two camps. One advocates that drip is very simple and easy to design and install. The second takes a more technical and practical approach, indicating that a certain level of expertise is required to design a properly functioning system.No environmental effects (like cooling or frost control with sprinklers)
Requires pressure regulation (usually pressure reduction)
Susceptible to vandalism (particularly surface systems)
Potential of salt build up (at perimeter of wetted area)
Potential of clogging (from calcium deposits in water or contaminants)
Filtration often required (to help reduce clogging)
Can’t see drip working (compared to sprinklers)
Shoddy products (products are constantly being introduced, often disappearing after a few months. Failed products hard to replace or impossible to find or repair)
Slow learning curve process for the landscape industry:
Many irrigators are not comfortable with drip design
Many irrigators are not familiar with installation procedures of drip
Maintenance people are not familiar with drip system repair
Because the wetted area is much smaller when delivered by drip compared to sprinklers, control is more critical in application of water to avoid plant stress
What are sensors?
The ability to water only when necessary is the ultimate goal of efficient irrigation scheduling. Today’s technology allows for installation of sensors that can measure soil moisture, rainfall totals, and even shut systems down in freezing weather.
The technology of sensors is quite simple, they interrupt the electrical flow from the controller that would otherwise activate the valve. The sensor does not interfere with the controller’s program and therefore the controller doesn’t know that watering is not taking place. As a result, no "make-up" watering is done if a scheduled watering is interrupted or deleted all together by the action of a sensor. In some cases, for example, systems for large commercial and golf course sites, the controller actually interfaces with the sensor and directly modifies the planned watering schedule. However, that technology has yet to be offered in residential controllers.
Rain Sensors: These units are mounted in a location exposed to normal rainfall, but outside the watering spray of the sprinkler system. There are different designs, but most have settings that allow some sort of measuring to take place. Rain will cause the system to remain off during or after an event if sufficient rainfall is measured. The settings can be adjusted so that a light shower will not effect the system operation, or eliminate a scheduled watering, when rainfall is not sufficient to make up for a normal application.
Freeze Sensors: This type of sensor is very popular in commercial settings, where ice on walkways or streets can cause liability. Freeze sensors can have a place in the residential garden as well. Watering before or during heavy freezes can create problems with ice laden shrubs and trees, as well as creating the same liability concerns the commercial user experiences.
The freeze sensor is mounted on an outside wall, in a location most likely to experience freezing conditions. It will interrupt the signal to the control valves when temperatures fall below freezing. Once conditions improve, the system will return to normal operation.
The most important thing to remember when dealing with sensors is that they are mechanical devices, monitor and adjust them to help conserve
water.
How does a Backflow prevention device work?
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Backflow Prevention Devices:
The State of Florida requires every lawn sprinkler system installed in the State to be protected by a certified backflow prevention device. These devices are required to protect the quality and safety of the drinking water supply. |
What is Backflow and Why Should It Be Prevented?
Backflow is defined as the undesirable reversal of flow in a potable water distribution system as a result of a pressure differential or siphon condition that exists between two piping systems. Backflow is a problem where there is a desire to keep fluids from one piping system from re-entering another piping system as in the case of a cross-connection.
A cross connection is a connection (such as a lawn irrigation system) or potential connection (such as a garden hose) between any part of a potable water system and any other environment containing other substances (such as a lawn or a container of herbicide) in a manner that under any circumstances, would allow such substances to enter the potable water system. (other examples of common cross-connections include water supplies to heating boilers and hoses feeding utility sinks)
In other words, water that goes out a faucet, sprinkler head,or emitter should never be allowed to be drawn back into the potable water system by siphon, pressure loss, or any other means.
The backflow prevention device is used to keep water that passes through it, and into the irrigation system, from coming back into the water supply. Since water in an irrigation system can be contaminated by chemicals, animal droppings, and other yard debris, it is considered non-potable. Very strict standards have been set by the TNRCC (the equivalent of the Environmental Protection Agency for the State of Florida) and proper backflow prevention is required on all irrigation systems.
What Type of Backflow Protection is Required?
There are various levels of protection required for differing situations. In most parts of Florida, a lawn irrigation system is considered a moderate cross connection hazard to the water supply. Adding chemicals, such as fertilizers or herbicides, within the sprinkler lines is considered a high hazard cross connection. Septic systems are also considered a high hazard cross connecton.
Low hazard, moderate hazard and high hazard situations each call for a different device. The backflow prevention device chosen for a system must take into consideration the highest threat possible to the potable water supply that the system will encounter. Your local water authority can provide information onthe back flow device required in your area.
What About Yearly Re-certification?
Many water purveyors require yearly re-certification of the proper operation of the backflow device. See your irrigation contractor if you are notified that you need to have your existing device tested and certified. Chemigation is the term used to describe the process of injecting a chemical (fertilizer, herbicides, etc.) into an irrigation system for the purpose of treating an area the system waters.
Although chemical injection devices have been available for many years, only recently have users become more interested in their use. Although the devices have the capability to deliver chemicals quickly and easily to the area covered by the sprinkler system, they have a number of potential pitfalls that should be considered.
The most important consideration is the possible contamination of the water supply to your home, or even the entire neighborhood if backflow should occur while the device is connected to the irrigation system. A high hazard backflow device is a must when injecting chemicals into any watering system! (See Backflow Prevention)
In addition, the ability of your system to apply the chemical in the correct dose in a uniform matter depends heavily upon the capabilities of the sprinkler equipment and the design of the system. If you have a poorly designed system with non-uniform coverage, you will have spotty application of the chemical and resulting patchy plant growth.
In all cases: check with your local water authority and your irrigation contractor before connecting any chemical injection device to your sprinkler system!
When a part of the system stays on well after the scheduled shut down time, you know you have a problem. Sometimes the problem is an error in setting up the watering schedule in the irrigation controller. In other instances, there is a mechanical problem and you will need to manually turn off the water.
There are two places to turn off the sprinkler system: the system controller and a shut-off valve at the water source.
Turning Off the System at the Controller
If you turn the switch or dial on the controller to the OFF position, you have done all you can do at the controller. You can un-plug the unit at the wall, but in most cases, that won’t get you any further. (Note: un-plugging the controller could result in the loss of the watering program and require re-programming to reactivate the system.)
If the water is still running after you set the controller to the OFF position, this indicates that there is a mechanical problem with your system that will require you to manually turn the water off at the source.
Turning Off the System at the Water Source
for the sprinkler system. This will turn off the sprinkler system water without turning off the water to the entire house or building.
The valves on your backflow prevention device can act as the easiest to locate EMERGENCY CUT OFF. To assist you in locating the backflow device and correctly operating the valves, we are including pictures and information below.
The backflow device is usually located near the street in a rectangular box with a green lid. Older devices can be in a oval shaped box. In most cases the box sits inside the property line near the water meter. It may be difficult to see, since grass may have grown over the cover!
In some situations backflow devices are located above the ground. These are usually associated with septic drain fields or in some older systems.
Once you have located the device, turning it off is the next step. Each backflow device has two cut off valves, each does the same job. They turn off the water at the source without turning off the water to the house.
(There may be a good deal of resistance in moving this handle, the device may have been in service a long time and the valves may have never been turned.)
(There may be a good deal of resistance in moving this handle, the device may have been in service a long time and the valves may have never been used.)
The handles of these devices are notorious for twisting off due to corrosion. ONCE THE SYSTEM IS OFF, CALL YOUR IRRIGATION CONTRACTOR TO THE LOCATE THE PROBLEM AND REPAIR IT!
Excessive use of water, or large jumps from your normal usage can sometimes be an indication of irrigation problems. Overwatering, inappropriate scheduling, malfunctioning equipment and broken water lines can all lead to an unnecessary overuse of water.
However, in many cases it can be easy to blame the sprinkler system when another water usage problem may exist. Here is a simple check list to help determine if the sprinkler system may be the culprit: Check the Watering Program in the Irrigation Controller Was the program set-up correctly? Has someone re-adjusted the watering schedule? (With some controllers extended-watering cycles designed for drip irrigation, it is possible to water one zone for up to 10 hours.)
Call your Water Utility The City local water utilities may assist you in determining if you have a leak. They will only check as far as the meter, but will help in determining if you have a leak on your side of the meter. .
Call your Irrigation Contractor If you have located a broken pipe or sprinkler in your walk through, notify the service technician. Your contractor can always provide a more thorough check of the system and let you know if the system is causing excessive water use. The goal of an irrigation system is to evenly apply water in a desired manner on a scheduled basis. Areas that are continuously wet or excessively wet after or between watering cycles should be addressed immediately. Several factors can result in "wet spots", here are a few common causes:
Leaking Zone Control Valves: The individual valves in your system are essentially like faucets, they turn on and they turn off. Like a faucet, they can leak. Leakage can be caused by something caught in the mechanism that operates the valve or it can also be a sign that the valve is old and may need a replacement part installed. The most visible symptom of a leaking valve is water continuously coming out of a head long after the system has shut off. (Be careful, this can also be a symptom of low head drainage, which is described below.)
SYSTEM ZONE CONTROL VALVES SHOULD ONLY BE SERVICED BY A LICENSED IRRIGATION TECHNICIAN.
Low head drainage can be a problem if the water collects in a low area of the yard and makes a puddle, or if it flows across a walk or driveway.
This normal process is caused by gravity flow and water attempting to reach its own level and is typically not considered a problem. If it becomes a problem it can usually be corrected by adjustments to the system or installation of devices, called drain check valves, that can prevent low head drainage.
CONTACT A LICENSED IRRIGATION CONTRACTOR IF
LOW HEAD DRAINAGE BECOMES A NUISANCE.
Broken Pipes: "Wet Spots" can also be caused by broken pipes in the system. There are two types of lines in ir igation systems where pipe breaks can occur: Main (Constant Pressure) Lines and Lateral (Zone) Lines. In order to assess your situation, you will best be served by determining which type of line is broken.
Main (Constant Pressure) Line: This pipe that leads from the backflow prevention device to the individual zone control valves and supplies the system with continuous water pressure. If you break or have a leak in a main line, the water will flow continuously whether the system is running or not. The flow may be large enough to erode a hole in the soil or cause a continuous leak or wet spot.
IF YOU HAVE A MAIN LINE LEAK YOU WILL NEED TO TURN THE WATER OFF IMMEDIATELY, SEE HOW TO SHUT SYSTEM OFF
Lateral (Zone) Lines: These pipes feed the various individual zones of the sprinkler system that are under pressure only when the system is actually running. A lateral line break can be hard to spot because it only leaks while that particular zone or station of the system is active. No matter whether it is a small leak or a large break, it will eventually erode the soil and create a hole in the lawn or bed.
Line breaks waste water and can cause damage by erosion or overwatering. Both Main Line and Lateral Line breaks should be repaired by an irrigation professional. Contaminants (dirt, rocks or mulch) could enter the line during repairs and clog or permanently damage downstream sprinklers and other components.
IF YOU HAVE A LATERAL LINE BREAK, YOU CAN CONTINUE TO OPERATE THE SYSTEM BY TURNING OFF THE ZONE THAT CONTAINS THE BREAK UNTIL THE REPAIR IS MADE. THIS WILL LIMIT DAMAGE TO THE LANDSCAPE.
A number of factors can lead to poor coverage of turf and landscape areas resulting in brown patches and un-even plant growth. In some instances, there is a specific problem with the sprinkler equipment. In other cases, the system design or operating pressure needs to be investigated.
Incorrect Sprinkler Height: One of the most common and recurring problems resulting in poor coverage and damage to sprinkler systems is the improper installation height of individual sprinkler heads.
In shrubbery areas, heads may be located at the base of the shrubs or groundcover they are watering. These heads must be close enough together to cover the area by throwing water under the plant material. As shrubs mature, adjustments may be necessary to be certain that coverage is still adequate .
In many cases where heads were installed correctly, the turf builds up and grows with time, causing the heads to be too low relative to the surrounding grass. All systems should be periodically checked to make certain grass or plantings do not interrupt sprinkler patterns.
Tip: avoid trimming digging out divots around sprinkler heads or using a weed-eater to trim away grass each week.
Problems with sprinkler head height can often appear within the first year or two of a system’s life, contact your irrigation installer if you are within your warranty period. Otherwise, any irrigation contractor can resolve the problem.
Note: Do not attempt to remove nozzles by gouging or prying at the orifice. Nozzles are easily damaged by hard metal objects like screwdrivers.
Contact your irrigation contractor if clogged nozzles are a problem.
Incorrect Sprinkler Head Spacing: Often in watching a system operating, the casual observer may conclude that full, even coverage is being achieved because heads are throwing water over a given area.
Manufacturer’s specifications require what is referred to as "head to head" coverage. Each head is expected to throw far enough to touch the adjacent heads and vice versa. This type of coverage allows for optimum overlap and compensates for any potential imperfections in spray pattern or other conditions that may affect complete, even coverage.
Sprinkler systems in the South Florida area do not normally require any special maintenance or preparation for winter. Ground freezing in this area is rare and if system piping is installed per State law, it should present little if any concern.
In northern areas of the country, systems are blown out with air at the beginning of the cold season; in Fort Lauderdale this is never done. However, due to brief cold snaps that sometimes occur, exposed piping, such as runs under decks should be insulated. Sprinkler risers, or pipes that protrude out of the ground to water beds and shrubs, usually drain down to below soil levels and need no other protection.
NEVER TURN YOUR SYSTEM OFF OVER THE WINTER MONTHS!
During the winter months, you should adjust your watering schedule to reduce watering cycles. Shrubs, grass and the system will perform better if periodic watering is performed during the winter.
To ensure the highest-quality installation and optimum operation of your sprinkler system, you should carefully select the installing contractor. A licensed professional irrigator is an expert on hydraulics and proper sprinkler layout. He or she is well-versed in the latest equipment and installation techniques that will ensure a water-efficient system and years of trouble-free operation. Questions to Ask a Contractor When Considering or Comparing Bids:
Whether you’re interested in an irrigation system for a residential or commercial project, this section offers guidelines on important questions to ask contractors. If you ask these questions of each bidder, you will be able to more accurately compare proposals.
Contractor Licenses - Is the contractor licensed by the State of Florida? Florida law REQUIRES that an irrigation contractor be licensed. You should ask for the contractor’s license number. It should also be posted on his vehicle, proposal, plan and contract. In the State of Florida, contractor license numbers always begin with the letters C C.
System Warranty - What is the length of any warranty offered on the system? Does the warranty include repair parts as well as labor for the full period? Does the warranty cover a percentage of the repair costs, or is it pro-rated (you pay part of the repair costs in the later years of the warranty)? Are there specific manufacturer warranties on system components that extend beyond the contractor’s warranty terms?
After-Sale Service - Will the contractor service the system after the warranty has expired? What other types of service can the contractor provide? Is an extended warranty available and is a service contract offered? Are they something you should consider?
System Maintenance - What types of routine services will be necessary? When should they be performed? Can the contractor train you to perform some maintenance tasks?
Backflow Prevention Equipment - What type of backflow prevention device is being used on the system? (Be sure that local ordinances are being observed. Septic systems and chemical injection systems require high hazard devices.) Click here for more information on backflow prevention equipment.
You may want to contact your water purveyor to answer these backflow prevention questions: Will the backflow device be tested and certified on completion? Can the Contractor provide re-certification as local authorities may require?
Required Permits - Will the contractor provide and secure all necessary permits, inspections, and certifications required by local authorities and the State of Florida? (Ask for proof of all required documents upon the completion of the project.) You may need to contact your local water purveyor to provide details of necessary permits and certifications.
Insurance - Does the contractor have liability insurance? What is your liability if damage occurs to underground utilities in your property or if a contractor’s employee is injured on your property?
Sub-Contractors - Will any sub-contractors be used in completing the project? Will this sub-contractors employees be covered by the contractor’s insurance and be under his supervision?
Professionalism - Membership in local trade organizations indicates an active participation in the industry. It shows a professional attitude that can be reflected in the Contractor’s work. Trade association members keep up with the latest technology and changes in laws and regulations. Is the Contractor a member of the South Florida Lawn Sprinkler Association, or any other state or national professional organization? If not, why?
Details of the Sprinkler System - You should also review the following specific information on the system and equipment being proposed for your property.
What brand of equipment is being used for each of the system components? Why is this equipment recommended over another brand?
How many sprinkler heads and zones are being recommended? Does the contractor guarantee 100% coverage of the irrigated area, and for how long after the job is completed?
Are grass, shrub and groundcover areas being watered separately? If not, why?
What type of controller is being used? Does it offer multiple programs? Can you understand how to program it? Is it easy to review the program once it has been installed? Will it be installed in a location that is easily accessible?
How deep will the pipes and control wires be installed? (You should consider normal lawn maintenance practices, such as aeration, and potential for freezing in your determination of how deep lines should be
Are the electric control wires to the valves made for direct burial? How are electrical connections that are in the ground protected? (Poor electrical connections are a common trouble spot. They can corrode or short, causing valves to fail. Waterproof connectors, that are made for direct burial, are always required for proper operation.)
What is Chemigation?
How do I shut my system off?
Every irrigation controller has an OFF position. Depending upon the model or manufacturer of the controller, the OFF setting can be called RAIN OFF, RAIN, or simply OFF. In each instance the switch or dial position does the same thing; it shuts off the system electrically.
To turn the system off at the water source, you will need to locate the MAIN EMERGENCY CUTOFF
Ball Valves: Modern backflow devices are equipped with "ball valves". Each has a handle that appears as a "T" shaped lever on the backflow device. Rotate either of them in a clock-wise direction to shut the flow of water. When completed, the "T" will be positioned across the flow of the water through the pipe and you should see the flow of water stop.
Gate Valves: Older devices have "gate valves" with handles that look like faucet handles. Rotate either one in a clock-wise fashion until the water in the system is off.
Be careful when forcing these handles, they can cause a nasty cut if broken off. You may want to wear some leather gloves!
Why is my system using so much water?
Walk Around the Yard Do you find "wet spots" where water is collecting? Do you see signs of excessive dampness in any low areas that could be caused by seepage? Do you see any signs of erosion or holes that could be caused by a broken pipe?
Operate the System Look for geysers, or water boiling out from under heads that could be broken off below the ground.
Why is my sprinkler system leaking when it is off?
Low-Head Drainage: This problem is caused by water siphoning out of the lowest head in a sprinkler zone after watering is completed. When the water flow to the zone has been shut off at the end of its cycle, the remaining water in the lines will drain downhill to the lowest point. If a sprinkler head is located in the lowest part of the system, water will flow out of that head until an equilibrium has been reached or all of the water has emptied out of that zone’s pipes.
How do I fix broken heads and coverage issues?
Sprinklers installed too low can not rise above the turf or other plant materials. This results in an interruption of the sprinkler’s pattern of throw and can lead to gaps in coverage and flooding near the sprinkler. In addition, sprinklers that are installed too low are more prone to retraction problems and pre-mature failure as soil enters into the operating mechanism.
Sprinklers installed too high are an invitation to damage by mowing equipment or vandalism. They can also be a trip hazard that results in unwanted liability. Sprinklers that are installed too high should be corrected before damage or injury occurs.
Clogged Sprinkler Nozzles: Dirt or debris that finds its way into sprinkler nozzles can quickly disrupt sprinkler spray patterns. Even in systems with heads spaced correctly, clogged nozzles can cause uneven coverage. The first step in evaluating the cause of dry areas is to observe the spray pattern of each head in the zone.
Unevenness in lawn color, or brown patches, can indicate poor coverage. Systems having poor coverage will show their weakness during extreme dry conditions or when new installations require even watering because plantings have yet to develop mature and spreading root systems. Additional watering time and hand watering can sometimes help to resolve the problem, however basic adjustments to the system made by an irrigation professional may be the only real solution. See also Water Audits
How do I Winterize my system?
How do I select a irrigation contractor?